Asphalt stock car setup

You need to keep the ride heights as close as possible to where they were before you started. You can then make fine adjustments with the sway bar preload if desired. If the car is tight under throttle, or driving off the left rear, invert the spring perch offset adjustment procedure above. I have found that these are the best ways to adjust iRacing setups to suit your driving style, or to handle better under different temperature conditions.

This guide was awesome! Thanks a lot for making it. I was also wondering, are there any tricks you have to make your tires wear slower without damaging speed. When you enter the corner you are going to slow down. In order to slow you must lose kinetic energy. I have little experience on dirt but can definetely notice this! Your email address will not be published. Comments This guide was awesome! The artistry comes in when you actually do it.

Never start a race with this condition! A loose everywhere car will be very hard to drive. Driver adjustments will be of very little help. There is little benefit from small changes with this condition. Stay with changes that make a significant difference. A tight everywhere car will not be hard to drive but will be slow.

One particularly common case, is when there is a bit of understeer tight during corner entry at sharp corners. This case can have several reasons:. As stated before, loose entry is one of the worst kinds of cornering problems. Curing loose entry conditions is a high priority item.

Here are some things to try:. Tip: Work on it!!! Sometimes gets worse and progresses to a push in the middle but driver can usually make some driving adjustments. Tip: Fix it. Depending on severity can get worse. Driver can make limited driving adjustments.

At some tracks this condition can come to you in the long run. However only experience can tell you if this would be a safe gamble. Usually gets worse.

Driver can make limited adjustments. This situation works well with inexperienced drivers. Hard to drive and usually gets worse. Not recommended for the inexperienced driver.

Many times an excellent place to start a long race. Experience dictates if this is a good gamble. Easy to drive. Usually frees up as the tires wear. Not a good set up for the inexperienced driver. Be aware that some times cars don't seem to follow the rules. You can get conditions that contradict the rules.

Generally, you see this condition when you have gone to extremes with adjustments. If you get outside the range with your adjustments many things can happen to confuse the issue. When your car does not seem to get around the turns right you should first have a look at any adjustments that are to an extreme compared to what your car builder recommends or from what you have learned from your own experiences. The soft push occurs when you get below the spring rate that holds the front end up.

The suspension runs through its full travel too quickly and in effect bottoms out as the car enters the turn. What if you are already too soft? For example, lets say you typically would run 's in the front of a coil over car or 's in the front of a big spring car. The car has been pushing so you keep dropping front spring rate.

Now, as an exaggeration, you are down to 's in the front of the coil over car and 's in the front of the big spring car. The car will roll through the suspension travel too quickly and the car will push even worse. The point is that you can be fooled into going softer on the front spring rate to cure a push when the reality is that the front springs are fine but another adjustment would be a better option. When you get too soft in the front the car can push and installing a stiffer front spring actually makes the car turn better.

Just as with the soft push the same condition can occur with the rear springs. If you get the rear too soft the car can get loose as the suspension travel is used up too quickly and effectively bottoms out. In this case, a stiffer rear spring can hook the car up better.

Sometimes your car will skate in the turns. The whole car seems to slide up into the second groove. The driver has trouble running the low line.

Many times the driver explains this condition as a push. Panhard Bar Too High - A panhard bar that is too high can cause the skating condition. As the car gets to the "cut zone" the high panhard bar can pull the rear of the car up the track into the second groove.

When this condition occurs the driver often steers to the right to catch the car as it enters the turn. By the time the car gets to the middle it is out of position and the angle of the car is pointing towards the wall instead of down the straightaway. At this point, the driver feels the car push and reports that information to the crew chief.

Be aware. In this contradiction, lowering the panhard bar can make the car turn better. Too Much Rear Weight - Too much rear weight can make the car skate very similar to when the "too high" panhard skate occurs. The pendulum effect of the rear weight pulls the rear of the car up and the driver corrects to the right. A push then occurs at the middle which the driver feels more than the entry problem. The driver then reports a push to the crew chief. In this case, less rear weight would reduce the skating problem.

Awareness of "the soft push" and "soft loose" will allow you to think of other adjustments when "the rules" are not working out. Break the corner down, section-by-section, and you will speed both your car and your learning curve. Crew Chief Communication Responsibilities Make it easy for the driver to provide clear and informative feedback.

This low steering ratio can result in a twitchy car since the smallest of steering inputs will be felt in the car. It is very easy to over steer a car with such a low steering ratio. A car with a higher steering ratio will require more steering input to get through a corner. Too high a steering ratio might give the feeling of a tight race car as you find yourself turning the wheel further to negotiate a turn. This isn't a push, it's just requiring more movement in the wheel to steer the front tires the same amount as with a lower ratio.

With a ratio of at a track like Michigan you might only have to turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left to get through the corner. With the same exact setup, but a ratio of you might have to turn the wheel 90 degrees or more to the left to negotiate the same exact corner.

There is no correct setting for steering ratio. A lot of this depends on the type of steering device used. With so many different wheels on the market, you wont know what is comfortable for you until you experiment with it yourself. You may be comfortable with a steering ratio of at Dover with a TSW brand wheel, but find that after using a MadCatz wheel that the ratio is all wrong. This is because some wheels turn more or less degrees than others requiring different steering ratio settings.

Road courses are a track with slow sharp turns that would require a lower ratio. High speed long sweeping corners would not require such a low steering ratio since you are not required to turn as sharply on tracks like these. Steering Ratio synopsis: The lower the ratio the quicker the steering response. The higher the ratio the slower the steering response. Lower ratios require less turning of the wheel to negotiate a corner. Higher ratios require more turning of the wheel to negotiate a corner.

Tire Pressure Tires are the most important component on a race car. In fact, every single thing you adjust on a race car is for the benefit of the tires. All these adjustments that I've discussed in this guide are all about trying to achieve the best possible grip from the tires to the track.

If you have the best grip at all 4 wheels, then you'll have the fastest car on the track. Tire pressure is yet another adjustment that will aid you in achieving the best possible grip. Tire pressure is simply how much air you have in a tire. The hotter tires get, the more they expand. Air contains moisture. WC teams actually don't use air in their tires they use nitrogen.

Nitrogen is preferred over air because it doesn't expand as much with temperature changes because it doesn't contain moisture. Since it's impossible to remove all the moisture from a tire, it will still change pressure as temperatures rises. When tires expand it changes the size of the tire which in turn changes the weight on that wheel. This can be either a negative or positive situation depending on your chassis needs.

Tire pressures can be adjusted on all 4 tires from as low as 8 psi. Improper tire pressure can cause an ill handling car. Correct tire pressure can be determined by reading tire temperatures. A tire with a temperature reading higher in the center of a tire indicates an over inflated tire. Over inflated tires will have a tendency to make the car tight.

Under inflation can slightly loosen a chassis but give better grip. Lower tire pressure will also increase the amount of heat in that tire. Excessively low tire pressure produces more heat which can result in quicker wear. Altering tire pressures allows us to slightly modify the stagger. Stagger is the circumference of the right side tires compared to the left side tires. The best way I can describe stagger is by using a white Styrofoam coffee cup.

You know, the kind that is bigger around on the top than on the bottom. Now push it along the table letting it roll. You see how it turns in one direction. This is stagger. Imagine the top or larger side of the cup as the right side tires on a race car. Imagine the bottom or smaller side of the cup as the left side tires. See how it turns left? Stagger on a race car works the same exact way.

By increasing tire pressure on the right side, or decreasing pressure on the left we add stagger to the chassis allowing the car to turn left better through a corner especially under acceleration. One thing to keep in mind when dealing with tire pressures, is that your also changing the weight of the car on the corner your lowering or raising pressure at.

By raising or lowering pressure your changing the ride height of the chassis. Changing the ride height adds or subtracts weight from that corner of the chassis. So tire pressure actually reacts like a spring. Adding more tire pressure makes that corner of the chassis a little stiffer.

Lowering tire pressure will tend to make that corner of the car softer. Tire psi synopsis: Higher psi in RF will loosen the car. Lower psi in the RF will tighten the car. Higher psi in RR will loosen the car.

Lower psi in the RR will tighten the car. Higher psi in the LR will tighten the car from the middle out. Lower psi in the LR will loosen the car from the middle out. Higher psi in the LF will tighten the car. Lower psi in the LF will loosen the car. The lower the psi in a tire the hotter it will run.

The higher the psi in a tire the colder it will run. Excessively low front tire psi will create a push. Excessively low rear tire psi will create a loose condition. Increasing the split more RR psi than LR increases stagger, helping the car to turn in the middle of a corner. Tire pressure allows us to fine tune the chassis. Drastic pressures changes at various corners of the chassis could produce less than desirable results. Keep an eye on tire temperatures.

Although your changing the weight on each tire with tire pressure, your changing it to a much lesser degree than with a spring change. Tire Temperatures When I talk about the inside of each tire, I'm referring to the edge closest to the brake rotors or inside of the car. When I refer to the outside edge of each tire, I'm referring to those edges that are furthest from the brake rotors. I previously mentioned that every adjustment we attempt to make on a racecar, is an attempt to try an maximize the grip of each tire.

By taking tire temperatures of each tire we can "read" how well our chassis is performing. Tire temperatures are the only scientific proof we have of how a chassis is working. It's easy for a driver to misinterpret how a car is handling. Tire temperatures eliminate that mystery by telling us which corner of the car is over or under worked.

The information I am going to discuss below, is what I've learned over the years working on real race cars. Some of the tire testing information I will mention below has given me various results within the sim. Some of this information transfers over to the sim rather well. Use this information to the best of your advantage to better understand the concept behind reading tire temperatures.

Tire temperatures are taken with a tool called a tire pyrometer. By comparing tire temperatures across the surface of the front tires we are able to tell if we have proper camber angles, proper toe, proper weight distribution, as well as proper tire inflation.

Comparing diagonal averages indicate the proper amount of wedge in the chassis. The optimal tire temperatures should be in a range of to degrees. Keep in mind that the hotter the tire the quicker it will wear out. The inside of each tire is the edge closest to the brake rotors or inside of the car.

The outside edge of each tire are those edges that are furthest from the brake rotors. This is because of the way the tires travel down the straightaway. On a larger track with longer straights, this spread will be even further. On an oval, the RF tire will have more negative camber, thus resulting in the inside edge of the tire contacting the track more than the outside edge giving you the higher temperature.

On the LF you will run with more positive camber, so just the opposite holds true. The more camber you run, the higher these spreads will be. On a small track were you spend a lot of time cornering, you'll find the spread not as high. This is because your spending more time cornering than on the straights, thus distributing the temperatures across the face of the tire more evenly.

If you try to achieve even temps across the tire you may develop a push. This is telling you that you have too much positive camber. Although the tire may be flat on the track, on a straightaway, the tire will not be flat on the track while cornering. By comparing the average temperature of all four tires you can see which corner of the chassis is working harder than the other.

If your RF is a lot hotter than the other three tires your probably pushing because the RF is doing too much work.

Work on cooling that tire off by lowering the RF spring and allowing the other tires to share some of the work load. By comparing the RF average to the RR average you can tell if the chassis is loose or tight. The RF should be about 10 degrees hotter than the RR. If it's higher your probably pushing. If it's lower your loose. A tire is being under worked when it's temperature is a lot lower than the other three tires.

When a tire is cooler or under worked, try concentrating on that corner of the car. Try adding weight to that corner of the car to increase the temperature of that tire. If a tire is a lot hotter than the other 3 work on making that tire cooler. If it is warmer you have too much cross weight. If it's cooler then you need more cross weight or wedge. Don't expect to learn everything reading the temps only once. It will take a number of 10 lap sessions to sort everything out that is going on with the tires.

When analyzing tire temperatures it should be done in a specific order. This is because a problem in one area may mask a problem in another area. Here is what I do. Run 10 laps, adjust front cambers. Run another 10 laps. Adjust tire psi. Run 10 laps. Adjust toe if needed. Adjust wedge.

Run 10 laps.. Look for overheated or overworked tire. Adjust on that corner. Repeat the process all over again. Run 10 more laps. When checking tire temperatures it is important to make sure your not locking up the brakes or making any sudden changes in your steering outputs.

These will all create erroneous tire temperatures readings. Let me try to simplify how to read tire temperatures by giving you this guideline. Let me reiterate once again that the results you see may vary.

Lets look at a few examples. Overall average temp is The RR is approximately 26 degrees hotter than the RF. If this RR is also the hottest tire on the car, it indicates the RR is doing the majority of the work in the corners. This is the corner of the chassis I would work on. We need to take some weight of this corner to cool this tire. I'd start by going with a weaker RR spring.

Average temp. Let's compare this with the RR below taken on the same car. This tire is 10 degrees cooler than the RF indicating a neutral handling chassis. This should be good, but we could be faster with a camber change on the RF.

The average temp is After the camber adjustment we no longer have a neutral handling car, but one that is now on the verge of becoming loose. Your general feeling may be that the camber change made the handling worse, and it very well may of. But were still heading in the proper direction. You may have to take a step backwards at 1st to take 2 steps forward later. To increase the heat in the RF try a stiffer spring. To decrease the heat in the RR try a weaker spring.

Either way you will make the car tighter. How much of a change depends on how much it changes your tire temps. Eventually you should be faster than your neutral handling setup with improper camber in the RF. As you can see from the above example there isn't always an immediate cure. Chassis setup is sort of like solving a puzzle. Always keep in mind that you may be going the correct way, but there could be an adjustment elsewhere that may be masking your initial change.

Because of this chassis setup can become very frustrating for the novice and experienced alike. For every change you believe your making for the better, it will have an adverse effect elsewhere in the chassis.

Curing the loose condition exiting the corner now has probably messed up your chassis going into the turn. Now you must loosen it up again. Tire Temperature synopsis: Optimal temp range is between degrees. The hotter the tire the quicker it will wear.

The hottest tire on the car is the tire that is being worked the most. The coolest tire is the least worked. Work on the corner of the chassis that is either the most overworked or least worked 1st. Track Bar The track bar or panhard bar as I like to call it, is simply a bar that is mounted behind the rear-end that keeps the rear end from moving from side to side while cornering. The left side of this bar is mounted to the rear-end, while the right side is mounted to the frame. Rear roll center directly effects the body roll experienced in the car.

Within the sim we are allowed to lower the bar as low as 7. This measurement in inches is simply telling you how far off the ground the track bar is located. Adding stagger to the track bar changes the angle at which the bar is mounted. By changing the track bar from level, to either uphill or downhill raising or lower only one side, the LR or RR you add rear steer to the car. The easiest way to describe rear steer is by equating it with wheel base. If one side of your wheel base measurement is NOT the same as the other, you have rear steer.

When you add rear steer to the car by running track bar stagger, you change how the chassis will perform at various points throughout a corner. Raising the right side of the track bar, or lowering the left side, will make the car looser under acceleration while at the same time tighten you up under braking. How much tighter or looser? It depends on how much track bar stagger you have.

Track Bar synopsis: Raising the bar on both ends loosens the chassis. Lowering the bar on both ends tightens the chassis. If you haven't yet read the setup notes section please do so now.

Proper note taking is the most overlooked aspect of chassis setup. You can never have too many notes. Without proper note taking your always trying to find a needle in a haystack.

With proper note taking you will at least know in which part of the haystack to begin your search. Was it clear or cloudy when you tested with this setup? What was the temperature? What happens to the chassis under different weather conditions? I'll also keep track of how I like to enter or exit the corners with the current setup. What is the best line around the track to take with the current setup? Enter a race informed of the situation at hand.

Proper note taking will keep you one step ahead of the competition. Transmission Ratios The transmission is designed to change the high rotational speed and low torque turning force of the engine's crankshaft into the higher-torque rotation needed to turn the wheels over a range of speeds. Transmission ratios vary through the 4 gears selected during shifting and are adjustable in varying increments for each individual gear.

Most of your ratio changes will be made at the rear end in the differential. The most important factor in selecting proper transmission ratios, is to make sure your not geared to high causing excessive wheel spin. You must also be sure you have a good split between ratios through all 4 gears. You'll want to maintain as high an rpm as possible when shifting through the gears.

To large a split ratio between gears will cause slow acceleration and lost time whenever shifting is required. For successful gear shifting, remember that it is critical to ensure that all mechanical elements between the drivers hand and the dog faces are in good order and properly set.

This includes the gear linkage in the chassis! Successful up-shifting, defined as fast and non dog-damaging will be achieved by fully moving the dog ring as rapidly as possible from one gear to the next, preferably with the engine's driving load removed until the shift is completed. The opposite is true of a synchromesh gearbox as used in passenger cars, where slow movement helps.

It should be remembered that it is not possible to damage the dogs when fully engaged in gear. If a driver moves the gear lever slowly, or if the linkage is not rigid and effective, dog wear will occur.

We always recommend lightweight yet solid rod linkage, not cables ideally. I list below the different methods of up-shifting that are used in racing most commonly. The best at the top, the worst at the bottom: Automated semi automated. Gear-shifts take milliseconds. This system produces zero dog wear when set up well. It is not applicable to most cars, but it illustrates that speed of shift is a good thing.

Manual with engine cut. This system is almost as good as an automated one as long as the driver pulls the lever very quickly. Again it is not applicable to many cars, but it illustrates that speed of shift is a good thing.

With this system it is especially important to move the lever ultra fast, otherwise the engine will be reinstated during partial dog engagement, causing damage.

The damage can usually be felt by the driver. Manual Best method: With no assistance from the engine management, the driver must lift off the throttle sufficiently to allow the dog ring to be pulled out of engagement. He should then stay off the throttle long enough to allow the dog ring to engage with the next gear.

In practice, the driver can move the gear lever faster than he can move his foot off and back on to the throttle. Therefore the effective method is to apply load to the gear lever with your hand and then lift the throttle foot off and back on to the pedal as fast as physically possible. In lifting your foot, the loaded gear lever will almost involuntarily flick to the next gear before the foot is re-applied to the throttle.

Another method is to load the gear lever with your hand, stay flat on the throttle and dab the clutch to release the dog ring. The overall effect on the gear shift is similar to the above method, but clutch wear may become a big issue. The method causes unnecessary clutch wear, does absolutely nothing to help come out of gear and usually causes dog wear whilst engaging the next gear.

This wear is due to several reasons. Firstly, it is impossible for a driver to co-ordinate the complicated sequence of all five physical movements accurately. Consequently the engagement dogs often find themselves engaging whilst the throttle is applied. Successful down-shifting, has similar rules applied regarding speed of shift.

Unloading the dogs is done in the opposite manner obviously. Whilst braking, the dogs must be unloaded by either touching the throttle pedal or- my preferred method- by dipping the clutch. However, one sharp dab of clutch or throttle is appropriate per shift. Continued pressure on either will cause dog damage for different reasons.

Wedge The wedge can be adjusted by clicking the weight bias tab on the garage screen. Wedge is also known as cross weight or diagonal weight. Wedge is used to keep the back of the car tight entering a corner while also adding bite exiting a corner. A setup that will spin it's tires easily will require more wedge to counter act the traction loss under power. A setup with a higher gear ratio or one that does not spin the tires will require less wedge.

Wedge is required to get through the corners. You might think that by changing wedge you would change left side or front bias, but that isn't the case. Increasing wedge will tighten the chassis. Decreasing wedge will loosen the chassis. Wedge synopsis: Increasing wedge tightens the chassis.

Decreasing wedge loosens the chassis. Steering linearity can effect the way your car performs through the corners. The reason this option is available to use is because of all the available steering devices on the market. Although I don't suggest it, you are able to race with a joystick, as well as every type of wheel device you can imagine. Not all steering devices are created equal. Various manufactures provide different degrees of wheel movement.

Steering linearity allows us an adjustment to compensate for the differences in steering devices. As a general rule, most steering wheel devices will provide better precision when set towards a higher linear setting than low. Joystick users would probably prefer a lower non-linear setting. With non-linear steering, the steering is slower when the controller is close to center position and progressively quickens the more you turn the controller.

At a lower or non-linear setting, you will need to turn your wheel more to enter a corner, but you may experience a more comfortable feel, which will allow you to make better or more accurate steering decisions.

There is no right or wrong answer when it comes choosing the proper steering linearity. A loose setup may work better with a different linearity setting than a tight setup. Adjusting your linearity can change your lap times for the better or worse.

It can also change your tire wear for the better or worse. Adjusting your steering ratio along with your linearity will provide you with even more or less steering feedback. Don't be afraid to experiment with this option.

You may find yourself changing your linearity settings based on how tight the turning radius is for the track your competing at. Either way, experimentation is the only way your going to find out what is comfortable for you.

Qualifying Chassis Adjustments There are two distinct differences in NASCAR Racing as compared to N4; first, we now get two laps of qualifying at every oval track, second, we have to use the race motor. Even though we get two laps, we shouldn t waist the first lap for any track except the superspeedways.

Often times you ll find that the first lap is the quickest. There are probably two main philosophies about qualifying setups; we could build something that's very radical but it drives much differently than our race setup or we could build something that basically drives the same as our race setup but we take advantage of the fact that we re not concerned with tire wear at all so we build a setup that we can drive hard for two laps and not have to worry about changing our driving style that much.

I prefer that latter philosophy. The next section talks about the chassis adjustments I may make and the order I make them. Chassis Adjustments: Tire Pressures: The first thing we want to do is add some tire pressure to reduce rolling drag and bring the temps up quicker so we get maximum bite. We don t want to raise tire pressures so much though that we lose bite because we ve severely reduced the tires contact patch by crowning it too much.

Typically, we want the tires to crown about degrees. Tape: Next we add tape but at most tracks you re not going to be able to tape the whole grille up or you ll blow the motor before you ve completed two laps. As a matter of fact, you ll want to baby the car through the gears as you re pulling off pit lane. Remember that adding tape increases front down force which will loosen the car up some.

Wedge: If you use any negative wedge on your race setup, put the wedge back to neutral which will offset the added down force of increased tape. Final Drive ratio: I use a taller 4th gear than I think I need especially at the short tracks where rear wheel spin can rob you of serious time.

DO NOT use rear wheel spin to turn the car during qualifying. If the rev idiot light comes on at the end of the straights, 4th gear is too short.

A chassis that pushes on exit also robs you of time. Use the front sway bar to fine tune that. Camber: In NASCAR Racing, the true measure of camber may not show up for 15 or more laps and we already know that we don t want our tire temp spread to be any more that 10 degrees across the tire for maximum grip.

Again, this is much improved over N4 So for qualifying we may want to add a bit more negative camber to the RF and positive to the LF. Forward Weight: Since we have the car gripping a little better up front because of the tape and camber and we re probably going to enter the corners a bit faster, we may want to move weight forward a little for stability on corner entry. We don t want to make drastic changes here or it will throw off how the car handles in the middle, therefore how we drive the car.

Rear Spring split: To overcome moving weight forward and increased corner entry speeds, I increase the split in the rear springs which further stabilizes the car on entry and helps the car turn better from the middle off. For race setups, I use very little rear split because as the RF tire wears a big rear split has a tendency to make the car snap loose on exit. Springs: Stiffer springs can give you slightly better straight speeds but at the cost of handling. If you do stiffen or soften the springs, you ll want to do evenly on all 4 corners to keep the chassis handling about the same.

You can measure this by using roll couple. Shocks: If anything, I may increase the compression stiffness of the RF shock which allows the weight to stay on the left a little longer remembering that we really don t care about tire wear here. For race setups, a stiff RF compression will cause the RF to scrub more thereby wearing it out quicker. Sway bars: I may increase the front sway bar some if the car is a little too loose.

Roll couple does not matter in a qualifying setup except that drastically changing the roll couple will change the overall handling characteristics of the car. Remember our goal through this whole process is to make the car quicker but not change how we drive it very much if at all.

Those tracks have straights long enough and the corners are banked enough to warrant the decreased drag at the expense of down force. Caster: The very last thing I change because I normally have the way I want it from my race setup. From a driving standpoint, we re not concerned with tire wear but remember that sliding the car excessive squealing of the tires through the corners robs you of time. You definitely have to have the mindset of driving the car as hard as possible but even smoother than you do during a race.

Please use this section only as a general guide. You may not see the same exact results as mentioned below. Other component settings may mask changes made in different areas. Adjustments in other areas may be needed first before you see some of the changes indicated below in certain areas. All troubleshooting answers assume the rest of the chassis is already set correctly or close to being correct.

Car turns into a corner too quickly or becomes loose. Too much negative LF camber: Inside of tire excessively hot. Reduced pull to the left entering a corner. Chassis will tighten up from the middle out. Too much negative RR camber: Inside of tire excessively hot. Tight condition from the middle out. Too much negative LR camber: Inside of tire excessively hot. Loose condition entering a corner. Too much positive RF camber: Outside of tire excessively hot. Too much positive LF camber: Outside of tire excessively hot.

Increased pull to the left entering a corner. Chassis will loosen up from the middle out. Too much positive RR camber: Outside of tire excessively hot. Loose condition from the middle out. Too much positive LR camber: Outside of tire excessively hot. Tight condition entering a corner. Not enough caster: Car too sensitive, steering becomes twitchy. Very little steering feel, less effort is required to turn. Car will pull towards the side with less caster. Car will feel loose entering a corner.

Loss of traction or wheel spin when accelerating. Loss of top speed at the end of a straight-away. Too low a ratio: Low rpms. Car feels sluggish upon acceleration.

Car feels under powered. Not enough front bias: Will cause car to be loose. Not enough front brake bias: Will cause car to become loose while braking. Car pushes through the corners.